In between bites of an earthy huitlacoche sope - a disk of fried masa dusted with chèvre, borage, and epazote - I watched the hushed theatrics of the open kitchen, where a chef was diligently plating a serving of arroz verde. The décor is simple and sparse: a curved wooden bar, checkered tile floor, and a neon-pink-lit hallway that pays homage to architect Luis Barragán’s signature color blocks. On Constance Street, chef Ana Castro’s memorable five-course tasting menu at Lengua Madre nods to her paternal grandmother’s Mexican cooking. Light dishes (snapper crudo, smoked-beet tartare) are served in two parlors, a tiny glass atrium, and a lush courtyard.įrom left: A 19th-century former orphanage is now home to Hotel Saint Vincent Bryce Davis, the host at the San Lorenzo restaurant at Hotel Saint Vincent. The old rectory is now the amber-toned Elysian Bar, run by the folks behind the beloved Bywater bottle shop and wine bar Bacchanal. The hotel’s 71 rooms (designed by ASH NYC and NOLA-based StudioWTA) feature wrought-iron beds, armoires painted with trompe l’oeil, and custom gingham fabrics. Many credit writer-hotelier Nathalie Jordi for starting the area’s revival in 2018 with Hotel Peter & Paul, for which she painstakingly restored buildings from the 1860s that had been used by the Catholic Church. These days, it’s a hot spot for up-and-coming music venues, indie restaurants, and dive bars. Lined with Creole cottages and pastel shotgun houses, Faubourg Marigny (often referred to as the Marigny) is one of the earliest neighborhoods in New Orleans, established in the early 1800s by French colonizers. From left: The garden of Elysian Bar, at Hotel Peter & Paul, which is housed in a former church and school complex mixing drinks at the Elysian Bar.
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